La Rentrée

I have made it to Tarbes.
After a crazy stint in Munich for Oktoberfest, I’ve arrived, fully exhausted and ready to be settled. While we didn’t spend the entire time partying at the tents, we did spend an awful lot of time befriending the local beers. When Allie and I arrived, on Wednesday, we stowed our bags in the lockers at the train station and headed into town to see what it was all about… Beer and Bretzels! (and radishes, cabbage, sausages, and beer – again for emphasis) Munich is home to four large breweries: Lowenbrau, Hofbrau, Paulaner, and Augustiner. These four brews are allowed to be served at Oktoberfest. Any beers produced outside of the city limits are not allowed to have a tent on the Therenweise. Munich’s beers are pure and natural, and that’s what provides them with the delicious tastes that keep people drinking more than 100,000 liters per day (and that’s only the count for ONE of the larger breweries!) The beers must only contain four ingredients: Water, Hops, Wheat, and Yeast. We learned this on the second day that we were in Munich when Allie, Geraldo, and I took a brewery and tasting tour. We also learned that in order for a beer garden to be official it must have mature chestnut trees and the people must be allowed to bring their own food. The trees: chestnut trees were planted in public serving areas in order to keep the beer cool as there were no refrigeration systems and the trees’ broad leaves provided shade for both the brew and the guests. The food: a king wanted it to be the case that all could go and enjoy a drink, rich and poor alike, and as beer was relatively affordable, but a meal was not, he ruled that people should be allowed to bring their own food if they like.
The next day, Friday, we took a tour to the town of Dachau, next to which was housed the Dachau concentration camp. Now the camp is a memorial with only two of the barracks standing, and the main building transformed into a sort of museum. While there exists a gas room at Dachau, it was never used, it was hardly necessary in any case as the men at the camp were mostly worked to death anyway. The camp did however install a supplementary facility with 4 extra ovens, to expedite the body burning process. This facility was kept on the outside of the fence so that the workers within might not know what was in store for them, but the ovens were always working overtime and the smell of burnt flesh was something the prisoners would miss. Inscribed on the entry gates is “work will set you free”. But as we all know, for all the work those punished as scapegoats during the holocaust were only set free by the allied forces, not their backbreaking labor.
When we returned from Dachau, we decided to do something light, so we took a beer at a large centrally-located beer garden and ate the sandwiches we packed earlier that day. We took it easy that night though (meaning we each drank only 2 liters each) and spent the rest of the evening just meandering around, trying German McDonalds (I tried a McChicken which had sweet chili sauce instead of mayo – yum!), and stopping for some gelato.
On Saturday we finally succeeded in meeting-up with Mary Bolling in the main plaza of Munich to take a tour of town, by bike… by bar… by a beer-bike-bar which we powered by peddling and were served by the guide as he ‘drove’ us around town at 5mph. It was only an hour and a half, but we really enjoyed this light-hearted tour of Munich and the guide’s comical take on the local history. After that, the rest of Saturday was a blur. We walked around the town, walked through the English gardens, and eventually ended up at the Hoffbrau tent for one last hurrah… which lasted nearly all night! (It’s ok, I slept on the trains the next day between Munich and Strasbourg and then Strasbourg to Toulouse).
Arriving in Toulouse, tired and travel-worn, Valentin picked me up at the train and we went for a bite to eat before starting the 1.5 hour drive to Tarbes.
So here I am, at the Foyer des Jeunes Travailleurs (F.J.T.). I’ve only spent one night here, but I don’t plan on spending many more. It is, as a matter of fact, better than I anticipated, as I have my own room with a sink for only 17,5 euros per night, but I plan on leaving much sooner than next Monday. Sarah, the other American, and Natalia, the Chilean, have found studio apartments not too far from the city center, and in the same small building! I went with Natalia to the realtor today, as we decided to run errands together while we’re both staying at the F.J.T., so she could finalize the apartment details, and I decided to ask whether or not he could suggest anything for me that would not be too far from the city center as well. As it happens, the realtor we were working with is the owner of the building in which Sarah and Natalia have chosen to live, and he told me that he’ll be done with work on another studio (though slightly bigger and so more expensive) in about 2 weeks, would I like to see it? Yes! So we went to the building, and I immediately felt good things… it’s above a bakery, how much better could it get?! The free studio is 32m2 and is completely furnished. PLUS, a few of the assistants last year got together and bought a washing machine, and the studio which might be mine already has space for a washer and the necessary connections! I was excited for certain aspects of living with roommates, but not for others. But if the three of us live in such a small building anyway, it’s like having all the positives of living with other people, and none of the negatives!
I was busy getting things done today, with finding an apartment and all (pure luck), and opening a bank account at the Société Generale, I feel like I’ve accomplished at least a quarter of the things that had me being nervous about this experience. As for me being done at the F.J.T., I plan on staying with Natalia as of Thursday until my apartment is ready. It will be a little cramped for the two of us there, but that way I won’t have to do a big move of my suitcases once we’ve started doing observations and visiting my schools next week (I will be working in 3 different elementary schools I found out today).
I met my contacts from the program today, at what I would consider to be the district office. As it turns out, there is one elementary school which is further out of town, an hour walk I believe, and as it turns out this will be one of the schools I have. Luckily, or unluckily, there is a bicycle that they have from the past few years which I will be given to make my commute… wearing a purple helmet and a yellow reflective vest… oy. However, we only work 3 days per week, Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday, with Wednesday and Friday off. This means constant 3-day weekends for travel and fun, and that only one day per week I will make the trek to that school.
Tuesday nights are the meetings of the local engineering school’s international club, and being that its Tuesday, we will be off shortly to walk back to town for un verre with the club and to start mingling with the locals!
Signing off,
Veronica Corningstone

New Year / Next Day Photo Montage

New Year / Next Day

19 September 2009

Its been a couple days since I've written, which may seem like an eternity for you (Mom...;>) ), but its been quick for me. It is actually a positive occurance that I'v enot had the time to sit in front of my computer and write - that means I'm out in the real world livin gmy wonderful new life, now in the sweet new year of 5770!

Quick Note: My travel schedule has changed... I leave for Munich from Strasbourg on the 23, come back to grab my things from P&L's apt on the 27, then take an overnight train to Toulouse, arriving on the 28. Valentin will grab me at the train station and take me to the Foyer des Jeunes Travailleurs where I have a reservation until the 5th of October. I WILL find an apartment by then - 18 euros per night is just not efficient.

Yesterday, the 18, I took another looong walk... taking the term 'self-guided-tour' to a new level... 4 hours! I did the west half of town this time, stopping by the universities, the botanic garden, and then ultimately finding the Orangerie : http://www.jardinorangerie.fr/ (to which my sore feet would make their way again later that night - luckily by car). The long walk back took me through the citadel park also.

Lionel, Perrine and I went to Thomas and Dianne's apartment for dinner where we met up with Xavier and Ludovic for a relatively quick meal, we were there for only an hour and 45 minutes, before heading over to the Orangerie bowling alley. Its nice to know that I'm not the only person in the world who's average bowling score is 75. Xavier won both rounds with a score of 104 and 107; I came in 3rd and 4th.



20 September 2009



Post didn't go out yesterday as I was hoping, I didn't have time to add my photos before it was time to be on the go again!

Sooooo... Yesterday was pretty interesting, it involved a strong drink before noon, a concentration camp, French Mexican food, and Perrine's friends not believing me when I told them that chili peppers really ARE hot!

Perrine had to go to work yesterday till two, so Lionel and I started the day off right with one and a half chocolate pastries from Paul each, and a coffee. We then hopped on the tram and passed by the train station so I could purchase the remaining tickets I needed for Munich. We were supposed to meet Ludo (Ludovic), Dianne, and Tomy (Thomas) for lunch at the same Kugelhopf place where Lionel, his brother, and I ate last Saturday, at 12:45; it was only 11:50. Lionel proposed we stop by a local rhumerie for a couple tropical drinks before we meet up with the others, and I said why not... my drink was much stronger than any American Daiquiri I've ever had! Lunch was fun, but what happened after dessert was better: shoes.

I came to France without a pair of everyday, walking around, black shoes. So, upon entering the store next to the resto, a pair of shiny adidas caught my eye... it was love at first sight!

Struthof

22,000 people were killed here. It was not a large holding facility, but it did its part in the damage caused to many populations during WWII. At first, the facility was used mainly for holding people (many Jews and rebels of Alsace) and for performing experiments with Typhus, as well as autopsies on gas chamber victims. A few executions would happen every week, then every day, then two a day, until just before Alsace's liberation on the 22/23 of September, 1944. People were gassed, hung, shot, and killed by disease here, then autopsied and burned; their ashes were dumped into a mass pit at the bottom of the hill serving as the site of the camp.

But the most moving and powerful remain at this camp for me was not the holding cells, the oven, or the autopsy room, it was the barbed-wire fence surrounding the camp and its still-intact gate. To have entered through that gate, and to have the freedom to walk out as well, THAT is something truely incredible.

We finished off our day by heading back to P&L's place to cook dinner. Lionel had never made Mexican food before, and I found it too funny to see someone reading the directions on the back of the Old El Paso taco kit box so intently! I, and most people I know, can prepare tacos and burritos with their eyes closed, but then again, we have as many Taco Bells as we have McDonalds, nearly. There is not a market here for this sort of food, so I had trouble even finding the right ingredients for our meal (we ended up putting shredded swiss cheese on our tacos and fajitas). :>)

I made my salsa fresca with chilis, as there was not a jalapeno in sight, and the guys thought it would be a good idea to try eating the remaining chilis raw, and nearly whole! I used two chilis for the whole bowl of salsa... Xavier, Jeff, Tomy, and Perrine each ate half a chili pepper; they were all sweating and searching for the nearest drink.

We ate and started drinking around 9pm, then played cards and the dice game from Pirates of the Caribbean 2 till about 2am (when the neighbors started getting ticked that we were still making a ruckus out on the terrace).

Now, its Sunday morning, and I'm going to go make pancakes and hashbrowns for P&L!

(Pictures to come later)

Out and About

With new cell phone in pocket, and so a line of confidence by my side, I set out yesterday afternoon on my own for the first time into the centre-ville. It was fun and interesting to meander around the city center of Strasbourg, marveling at the centuries-old architecture and the natives at their afternoon watering holes.

I did a bit of browsing around the tourist-y shops, but my ultimate goal was to climb the massive circle staircase to the top of the Strasbourg cathedral... 2,60 euros and a few hundred stairs later, I made it!

The last photo was on my walk back to the apartment. Judging by the size of that barrel, I'm sure you can see how much the locals appreciate their beer! From Rivetoile (the mall) to the Cathedral is really only about a 15 minute walk! Perrine and Lionel are lucky to be so centrally-located! I also stopped to buy Perrine this funny plant :) Its pretty, like it grows orange paper lanterns, but it really has no other purpose as it is not edible and doesn't otherwise produce any flowers.

When Perrine returned from work, around 7pm, we went down into the mall to have sushi for dinner; the restaurant is the sort of place where the chef creates his selections of rolls, salads, and desserts, plates them on specifically-colored plates, then places them on a belt which revolves the dishes around the restaurant while you choose what you wish to eat. The rolls were smaller, and far more expensive than they would be in the U.S., Perrine explained that sushi is "à la mode" here... more of a fashion statement than a meal. And there were some very interesting French twists on the rolls to be sure! Heres one that I tried: the rice was cooked in milk, rather than water, and was then rolled in sweetened coconut, and the core of the roll is something that is usually found in crêpes... nutella and banana!

After dinner we met up with Perrine's friends over at Xavier's apartment, which was HUGE for central city living as a student (lucky he has a doctor-parent and is studying to be a doctor himself!) While there, I got to meet Quad, and consequently became friends with him on facebook:

Today Perrine will be off work early so we'll be heading out into the countryside, to Kauffenheim, to visit her parents for dinner. But before that, we're going to drive over the border to Baden, Germany, with Aurélie to go to Caracalla spa ( http://www.carasana.de/home/en/caracalla.html ) for some relaxation, and HOW the French LOVE their relaxation! Lunch hour is actually lunch 2 hours! I could definitely get used to this.